10 Realistic Ways to Cut Your Winter Heating Bill

The surest way to lower your winter heating bill comes down to three things: (1) stop heat from leaking out, (2) don't switch the boiler on and off \u2014 run it continuously at a lower setting, and (3) raise how warm the room feels. Energy-saving campaigns commonly cite the figure that lowering indoor temperature by 1\u00b0C cuts heating energy use by roughly 7%. The problem is that \"just live cold\" is advice nobody sticks to for long. So the list below is ordered to help you feel less cold while paying less.

First, check what kind of heating your home has

The right tactics depend on your heating system.

If your bill lists \"city gas,\" you most likely have individual heating; if it lists a heating charge measured in Gcal of heat used, it's probably district heating. With individual heating, how you operate the boiler is the biggest variable. With district heating, adjusting the valves on the room-by-room manifold makes the most difference.

1. Don't switch the boiler off \u2014 keep it low

The most common misconception is that turning it off completely when you go out saves money. Once the concrete floor and the heating water have cooled all the way down, reheating them burns more gas.

• Out for less than a day: don't turn it off \u2014 just drop the setting to around 17\u201318\u00b0C (63\u201364\u00b0F)
• Away for 2\u20133 days or more: use the \"away\" (\uc678\uc744) mode, which includes freeze protection
• While you're home: keep it at 20\u201321\u00b0C (68\u201370\u00b0F) and top up with spot heating if needed

Room-temperature mode vs. ondol mode

• Room-temperature mode: based on the air temperature around the thermostat, usually in the living room. Fine if you spend most of your time there.
• Ondol mode (underfloor heating-water mode): based on the temperature of the water circulating through the floor. Start around 55\u201360\u00b0C and, if it feels warm enough, drop it 5\u00b0C at a time to find your lowest comfortable point. Better suited to homes that run floor heating for long stretches.

The most accurate way to find out which mode works better in your home is to use each one for a month and compare the bills.

2. Plug the leaks at windows and the front door

A large share of heat loss happens through windows and gaps around doors. This is the best bang-for-your-buck zone.

1. Weather stripping (munpungji): for gaps in window frames and the bottom of the front door. Under 10,000 won (about US$7) makes a big dent in drafts.
2. Insulating bubble wrap for windows: just spray the glass with water and press it on. If you mind losing the view, look for high-clarity versions or cover only the lower half of the window.
3. Heavy blackout or thermal curtains: hang them long enough to reach the floor, and block the gap above the curtain rod too \u2014 otherwise you lose the benefit. During the day, open curtains on sunny windows to soak up the heat, then close them the moment the sun goes down.
4. Plastic draft barriers in place of an inner door: simply cutting off airflow between the entryway and the living room makes a noticeable difference.

Before you start: putting bubble wrap on windows that already get heavy condensation can lead to mold. Peel it off periodically to air out and dry the glass.

3. Shut the valves to rooms you aren't heating

On the boiler manifold (usually under the kitchen sink or in the utility room), closing the valves for rooms you don't use means that much less heated water circulating. That said, if you close every valve and heat just one room, the boiler may cycle on and off in short bursts, which can actually be inefficient \u2014 so it's safer to leave at least two open. Also keep freeze risk in mind for any room you shut off completely.

4. Low-cost gear that raises how warm it feels

The realistic approach is making 1\u20132\u00b0C lower feel just as comfortable.

Bedtime is where the savings are biggest: turn the heating down and switch to a hot-water mat or electric blanket instead. Just note that if this pushes you into a higher tier of the progressive residential electricity rate, your total utility bill can go up \u2014 so if your household already uses a lot of electricity, watch your bills and find the balance.

5. Hot water is a heating cost too

With individual heating, the hot water for your shower burns the same gas.

• Setting hot water to \"high\" means you end up mixing in cold water anyway, which is wasteful. Set it to medium, around 40\u00b0C (104\u00b0F).
• If you habitually leave the faucet lever in the middle or to the left (hot), the boiler fires up every time you wash your hands. Keep it turned toward cold by default.
• A water-saving showerhead cuts your water bill and your gas bill at once.

6. Don't overlook maintenance and support programs

• Flush the boiler pipes and check the filter: sludge buildup in old pipes hurts heat efficiency.
• Replace an aging boiler: condensing boilers are more efficient, and local governments and the Ministry of Environment sometimes run replacement subsidy programs. Budgets and eligibility change from year to year, so check the notices from your city, county or district office.
• Energy cashback and gas bill discounts: there are incentives for reducing city gas use, as well as bill reductions for multi-child households, people with disabilities and others. Application windows and eligibility vary \u2014 contact your city gas provider for the latest details.

7. Priority order by payoff

If your budget is limited, this is the order I'd recommend.

1. Weather stripping and window insulation (tens of thousands of won; immediate effect)
2. Optimizing boiler settings (free)
3. Thermal curtains and rugs (tens of thousands of won)
4. Spot heating like a hot-water mat (in the hundreds of thousands of won)
5. Replacing the boiler or the windows (millions of won; a long-term investment)

Key takeaways

• Generally you're better off keeping the boiler running at a low temperature than switching it on and off.
• Weather stripping, insulating bubble wrap and heavy curtains give you the most noticeable payoff per won spent.
• Close the manifold valves for unused rooms, but leave at least two open.
• Keep indoor temperature around 20\u00b0C and raise the perceived warmth with clothing, rugs and a heated mat \u2014 that's the realistic approach.
• Just changing your hot-water setting and your faucet habits will cut gas use.

Frequently asked questions

Q1. Is turning the boiler completely off when I go out really a losing move? A. For an absence of a few hours up to about a day, lowering the set temperature usually beats shutting it off, because once the home cools down, reheating takes more energy. However, for very well-insulated new builds, or when you'll be away for several days, \"away\" mode is the better choice.

Q2. Which is cheaper, ondol mode or room-temperature mode? A. It depends on your home's insulation, your daily routine and where the thermostat sits, so there's no universal answer. The most reliable way to judge is to alternate month by month under similar conditions and compare your bills.

Q3. If an electric heater lowers my gas bill, isn't that a win? A. Your gas bill drops but your electricity bill rises, and because residential electricity is billed in progressive tiers, your total can actually end up higher. It makes more sense to use electric heaters briefly, as supplementary heat for the space right around you rather than the whole room. Rates and tier thresholds can change, so check the current figures.

This article is general lifestyle information; actual savings will vary with your home's layout, insulation and household size. Please consult a professional before modifying or installing boiler equipment.